Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their children are unwilling to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to explore these tales and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.